When you say "atelier", I think thousand-hour beadwork, mille feuille chiffon dresses and squabbling seamstresses. Say it in Swedish and "atelier" becomes "atelje" - a streamlined and focused vision that is hardy in the way that Swedish design can be. Ann Sofie Back already went down the atelje route a few seasons ago with a great degree of success.
Now I revisit Josefina Larsson, (well actually I mistakenly knew her as Josefina Lar) who has rebranded her label as JÅAL ATELIER. She hasn't labelled her atelier the Swedish way but the result is that from fun fur, bulky cashmere pieces and discordant knitwear in her Central Saint Martins MA collection, she has toned it down to a sleek A/W 11-12 and S/S 12 combo collection of versatile knitwear pieces. The ice blue and black ribbed dresses don't allow for much whimsical play and the shapes of some of the jackets and coats have a very 80s MaxMara-ish feel. The twists come in the sequinned pieces that look like digital sequences with a mash of fibrous threads underneath as though it was an active motherboard. The expanse of black are also broken up with white elastic drawstring devices that nip in waists and roll up sleeves as well as the fringed scarf to add movement in some of the simpler slip dresses and wrap cardigans. The curious thing about Larsson's revamped website and JÅAL ATELIER label though is that pretty much everything is available to buy on her website and we discover that the word Atelier doesn't necessarily mean four-figure prices...
Her most expensive pieces are actually her archive Central Saint Martins MA collection which consists of many takes on decadent fur pieces, using volume, fun fur and odd colour combinations.
Her A/W 11-12 collection is available to buy now with a lot of the ribbed dresses and neck collars looking like they could be the ideal lazy outfits for the days in between the 25th and the 30th when you're basically stuck to the sofa watching as many Crimbo specials as possible, as well as being elasticated enough to allow for turkey leftover meals...
The seqential sequin pieces which are part of Larsson's S/S 12 collection are also available to pre-order on the website, for delivery in March if you wish to discover more about the intriguing thread and sequin texture.
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