VAG Lowdown

I'm Stockholm-ing at the moment but I had to finish up all the VAG talk (I know some of us who have a juvenile streak will continually read that as something else other than an acronym...it s'ok...).  I haven't read too many reviews though the general consensus I got from Twitter seems to be a positive one.  I didn't go down for the weekend so I am judging it by the limited day I was down there for - trying to see everything, speak to people and get a 'feel' for it.  I can't speak for the music side of things either given to me, the line-up wasn't very interesting and whilst billed with 'music' as part of it, I think VAG was sold more on atmosphere and components rather than it being a 'serious' mus fest... how else do you explain why The Feeling were there...

One of the questions that floated around beforehand was whether it was possible to organise a proper vintage festival that covers five decades - 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s - to please the everyman as well as the vintage enthusiast.  I got the feeling that perhaps the latter's wishlist for a festival might not have been satisfied but then I would say a vintage everyman festival isn't such a bad thing to get sniffy about. 

The definition of 'vintage' seems to be hard to pin down these days and is thrown around probably in more contexts than it needs to be.  That said, I believe there are people who practise a rather rigourous and strict version of 'vintage' where lifestyle and dress from certain periods go hand in hand and so you have people who retrogaze in groups, cliques and clubs.  50s rockabilly parties, 40s tea dances, 20s flapper parties... the springing up of these sort of events seem to have given rise to the sort of hardcore vintage enthusiasts that, quite rightly, a reader on the previous post compared to the likes of Japanese cosplay.  This is of course no bad thing even if it isn't something I favour for myself.  But then a weird sort of snobbery starts creeping into it all though which perhaps for me takes the fun out of 'vintage'.  Attitudes such as "Oh THAT isn't vintage!" or feeling like they have one up on you because they're head to toe in vintage and you happen to have slipped in a little something from Topshop.  Or you're not wearing a 50s dress in the way that it should be worn.  A vintage lifestyle hardcorist already sowed the seeds of doubt into VAG because in essence, it wasn't a festival that would suit their specific needs. 

Criticisms of VAG such as "Oh it's not authentic..." or "It's not in the spirit of TRUE vintage" have me baffled as to their own definitions of these words.  It isn't a small, boutique, specific festival attuned to a certain decade so in reality, it was inevitable that you had the aforementioned hardcorists coming to odds with such a large-scale festival.  Yes, there was a cheese factor.  Yes, there were plenty of gimmicks.  Yes, there were flaws in the grade of vintage being sold on site.  But it got people to at least be enthusiastic about the whole affair.  They may have been playing dress up for the day but perhaps they might dabble a bit more in vintage buying in the future?  What is wrong with a general festival that caters to the vintage dabblers, non-vintage coverts (and there were a few of those too...) and people who wanted a fun day out that weren't perhaps 100% knowledgeable about Dior New Look-style dresses, nylon stockings and go-go dresses.   

I suppose this relates to how I feel about vintage myself... I love sourcing pieces that stand out on their own, as a piece, not because they have been propped up by a certain decade but because the design has merit to it.  Is that 'authentic'?  Is that the spirit of TRUE vintage?  I'm not sure but I'm a consumer of vintage of sorts and if non-converts came along to the festival only to fall in love with a few pieces, I see no reason to begrudge them for playing 'dress-up' for the day or for not being vintage purists.      

Still, I wouldn't say VAG was without its faults.  I don't mind the elaborate sets that felt like you were walking in a theme park as I had no pretenses about it being anything other than a money spinner... I don't even begrudge the organisers for wanting to go big on its first 'proper' debut (they had a trial festival last year I believe?).

So good old John Lewis popped up with all its reliable homewares and haberdashery gussied up with a slightly twee style... no problemo with a jazzed up haberdashery at all on the festival 'high street'...

The context is further honed in with these Celia Birtwell for John Lewis designs...

Dr Martens were there to do some customisation with a guy doing some intensely detailed engraving on matte leather docs... again no problemo...

70s style curry house?  Again, kitschy goodness even if was probably a rip-off curry... but then again, wouldn't that be authentic in a weird/odd way?

Alright, Oxfam, remade to their 1948 shop fit... with sadly 2010 prices that were hiked to the hills...£55 for a jacket I tells ya... still their presence on the 'high street' makes some semblance of sense...

The fashion workshop was pretty popular with people sitting down to machines and getting their heads down with knitting and crochet...

Cath Kidston...again... fit for a vaguely vintage-themed high street that the masses would identify with...

Kenwood food demonstration van... hmmm... you start asking why?  As with the Veuve Clicquot champagne lounge, the ICW watch house...

Then a 'photo studio' sponsored by Primark... *thud*  Simply asking "Why?" doesn't quite suffice...I liked the idea of incorporating sponsors in creative ways but having Primark there was just a big anomaly for me...

Then to the side strips of stalls where vintage, crafters and other indie joints were asked to participate... now,coach handbags, there''s also been some talk of some shady dealings with regards to the organisers charging exorbitant amounts for people to pitch up and sell.  Amelia's Magazine has a few tales to tell.  If I took it all at face value, then I do think the organisers have missed a trick by being 'elitist' with their charges especially since those that sell a 'mass' amount of vintage may not necessarily be selling amazing wares.  Some people who I've seen at the Battersea vintage fairs for instance weren't present with their perhaps more 'niche' vintage pieces.  I therefore apologise if I don't have a huge amount of photos of clothes... if I'm honest, I a) wasn't on the hunt for pieces considering I'm clearing out my wardrobe and b) a lot of it wasn't making me gawp in awe either. 

I did however love that Reem Alasadi was selling her reclaimed/remade vintage pieces...

I found the bric-a-brac/antiques/junk stalls a bit more interesting...nearly took home this book about the history of the snuff shop but instead bought some frames and a beautiful book of photos...

A familiar face was to be found at Supermarket Sarah's mini-stall...

Denim jacket by Sovereign Realm from Junk Shop in Manchester...

A bit of the 90s crept in with these Kangol loafers that people had at school...

The aspects I found more interesting, outside of the shopping were the talks that were being held... not nearly as oversubscribed or popular as the music/fashion catwalk events...

The family aspect was also quite rooted into the festival with fairgrounds, fake beaches and a Butlins tent...

I liked the bits on the outskirts of the festival such as mini campaigns for the The Twentieth Century Society who I really support with its endeavours to save heritage buildings...

Or the fun-themed tribute to Leigh Bowery or the dress-up photo booths...

I didn't get to check out the glamping side of things but those with show stopping caravans definitely looked at home...

Like I said in the post before, it was a broad audience and it seemed to me that there seems nothing wrong with using vintage as a platform for an everyman-pleasing festival though there's food for thought in all aspects of the festival that could make it heaps better.  If a niches need to be catered for with something more low-key, less showy and more specific, then VAG couldn't possibly fulfill it.  I suppose I had no pretenses about what VAG would be like given the scale that the website seemed to indicate the whole time but I suppose there are those that will forever grapple with vintage and everything attached to it as a lifestyle (in clothes and in 'spirit') as a sacred ground that shouldn't perhaps be tampered with.  Sadly with my new threads, inauthentic me is not one of them...

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Lunar and Far Out

I'm not normally into fashion round-ups, summaries and re-caps that fashion media relies on so much to disseminate information out there in easy-to-digest bitesize chunks, because I never seem to have the foresight to 'summarise' in my head.  I'm a simple child I am... give me obvious pointers and FINALLY, I'll maybe put two and two together and form a coherent strand in my head. 

In this case, I've put one and one and one together to make a 'round-up' of jewellery collections that have all been flying to the moon, travelling through back to art deco/nouveau times and then landing back down on Earth in a heap of dusty, dry arid-heated craters.  It makes a whole lot of sense to simple me when it's some space odyssey/desert adventure.  The interesting (as well as comforting) thing is that despite all three designers taking their jewllery on far-flung journeys with slightly similar inspiration points, the actual execution of their collections have all taken very different turns...

Carianne Moore - Have written about milliner, accessories AND jewellery designer pushing it forward with her headgear but her latest collection I feel has pushed her jewellery MOORE and I'm thinking it's the 'lunar' influence that has done the trick.

Title: "Lunar Nights" S/S 10

The Blurb: "Miss Moore introduces her ‘Lunar Nights’ S/S10 collection of futuristic Jewellery, Handbags and Hats inspired by her love for 1920’s Science Fiction. Influenced by fictional stories of life beyond the stars and the 1920’s organic design movement inspired by nature, ‘Lunar Nights’ collection is a science fiction story"

Materials: Dragonscale, painted stingray, Swarovski crystals, wood panels, straw, antique brass, pearl

Colours: Malachite green, spinel blue, citrine yellow.(I just had to put these in because it really makes me think about the way I need to define colours... )

Estelle Deve - This is French-born, Australia-based Estelle's second collection but looking back on her first collection you wouldn't think it was the same designer's work because Lunar Mare is such an escalated progression from the first, by ramping up the level of strong simplicity in the pieces.  Deve's e-shop is also up and running to buy the S/S 10 collection if you fancy these tubular beauties.

Title: Lunar Mare S/S 10

The Blurb: "Lunar Mare is a ceremony of cinematic space odysseys (depicted in movies such as Dune and Stargate), aesthetics of centuries old African tribes and Grecian myths. The end result is surprisingly submerged in decorative elements of the Art Deco movement. Each unique concoction is named after a location of the moon, the closest celestial body that stands between our Earth and infinity."

Materials: Leather, clear resin, precious gold-plated pewter.

 

 

MANIAMANIA - I've never seen the inspirator film of this collection 'The Holy Mountain' but after flipping through their stunning lookbook, I'll definitely go and seek it out.  Designed by stylist Tamila Purvis and Melanie Kamsler, this is Australian label ManiaMania's first collection.  These are definitely pieces that require severe piling on with minimal clothing foundations (maybe not AS minimal as the lookbook suggeest...) but I love that how the images are sort of making me actually run into the desert completely starkers but fully adorned.

Title: Real Life Awaits Us S/S 10

The Blurb: "The range is integrally inspired by director Alejandro Jodorowsky’s The Holy Mountain, a 1973 surrealist film collaboration with John Lennon and Yoko Ono, the symbolic story of a spiritual quest for cosmic enlightenment."

Materials: Molten metal, calcite crystal, metal beads, silver and soft leather.

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